35mm Film Into 120 Backing Paper Jig from EBay

This is a post for people who wants to shoot sprocket holes photos with medium format cameras.  You can buy cheap adaptors quite easily, but they can not be used with older cameras with viewing window on the back.  For cameras with a viewing window it is difficult to get consistent frame spacing.  Even if you tape up the window, frame spacing can be hit and miss.

There is a solution though.  I saw this rig on EBay for rolling 35mm film onto 120 backing paper.  I have shot 35mm films with adaptors with good results, but you always have to do work around.  Also, no need to unload the film in the dark.

With this rig, you are able to roll 35mm films into 120 backing paper easily.  All you need are some spare 120 backing paper, film spools and a dark bag or dark room.  I bought this from EBay and received it within a week.  The rig itself looks like it is 3D printed but feel durable enough for what it needs to do.  It will not be too difficult for anyone to print one.  The cost from EBay was £14 (UK GPB) delivered.  I guess if you have a 3D printer, it will cost very little to print one.

If this works, it will make shooting 35mm film in medium format cameras much easier.

YOU NEED TO DO THIS IN A DARK BAG OR DARK ROOM!

 

I put the film canister into the rig and then taped the film onto the backing paper.  I then placed the whole thing into my dark bag and rolled the correct length of film onto the spool.  I Marked where that should be with a masking tape on the backing paper so I can feel it in the dark bag.  At the correct length, I cut the film and then roll the rest of the backing paper onto the spool.  That is not the end though, you now need to put a spool back onto the end of the backing paper and roll the backing paper/film the other way.  This is so the film starts at the right end.  You must make sure you keep the backing paper tight without slack to avoid "fat roll" and light leak.

I made two rolls of film to test.  Unfortunately I could not show you the process in the dark bag.  The camera I used to test was my Mamiya Six folding camera.  With the 35mm film loaded I masked off the viewfinder to take into account of the 35mm film

The results was very good.  Frame spacing was very good.  However, there is a hint of light leak from a couple of frames.  Here are a few photos from the first roll.

Now I know this works, I will be able to use the 35mm film in all my cameras without doing any work around.  Most importantly, I do not need to carry a dark bag to unload the film.  Is the rig worth the money?  I think so.  I have tried doing this without a rig in the past and it is difficult to centre the film.  You need three hands to hold everything.  The result was very inconsistent.

They also make a version to load 35mm film into 127 backing paper.  For people with 127 cameras, I would say this is really useful.  The width of 35mm film is much closer to 127 film.  127 films are very expensive, this rig makes shooting with 127 cameras much cheaper.  Although, you will have to live with the sprocket holes.

Half Frame Dark Slide to Shoot Panoramic Photos with Bronica ETRS

The half fram dark slide

Graffiti at Camden Town

I have been shooting with my Bronica ETRS for a number of years and always wanted to shoot panoramic images with 135W film back. Recently I saw half frame dark slide on eBay. This is basically a dark slide that only covers half the frame. This will allow you to shoot 30 6x2.25 panoramic images. It is not straight forward and does require you to shoot in a strict sequence.

Stand dark slide against half frame slide

The slide covering the top half of the frame

I shot the top half and then the bottom half to for a complete image

1. insert this dark slide into the back to cover the uppper half of the film. 

2. Use the upper half of the viewfinder to take a picture. 

3. Switch the body to milti-exposure mode and wind the camera. 

4. Pull out the dark slide, flip it around and re-insert it, to cover the lower half of the film. 

5. Use the lower half of the viewfinder to take a picture. 

6. Take a picture. 

7. Switch back to normal mode (as opposed to the multi-exposure mode), and repeat step 1.

Small amount of light leak

Camden Market

Camden Lock

It is easy to forget sometimes. During my first roll of film, I forgot flip the multi exposure lever a couple of times and advanced the film before shooting the second image. After used to shooting 15 images to a roll, shooting 30 photos to complete a roll of film took forever.

The half frame dark slide does not allow the film back to be removed when inserted.  The camera does not know it is inserted and allow the shuter to fire.

Negative showing frame spacing.  Note full frame image can be mixed with panoramic.

This is a very cheap way to shoot panoramic if you already have a Bronica ETRS.  I will be using it again.  I do need to create a musk for the viewfinder to show the middle.  For this test roll, I guessed the middle.  The half frame slide in highly recommended if you are will be work to a strict routine.

All images shot with 50mm F3.5 lens.

Converting Bronica ETRS 135N Film Back to 135W

This is my journey of converting a Bronica ETRS 135N film back to panoramic.  Almost like the 135W back.  The Bronica ETRS camera is often overlooked because it shoots 6x4.5.  The smallest medium format size, but it is really nice camera to shoot with.  I have been shooting with it for over 4 years without any problem.  Over the years, I have shot 120, 220 and 35mm films with the appropriate backs.  Shooting 35mm films results in 24x43mm images and it also expose the sprockets as well.

I love panoramic images which I started shooting with a Horizon 202 (a swing lens panoramic camera).  That camera was sold when I started shooting digital.  In the last few years, I started to shoot film again and really want to shoot panoramic again.  Since I was already shooting with a Bronica ETRS it makes sense to use that to shoot panoramic with the 135W film back.  It produces 24x55mm images (2.3:1 ratio).  The cost is the only draw back, costing more the camera itself.  Currently the cost of a 135W film back is about £600 (GBP).  Not the amount I am willing to pay as it is not what I shoot all the time.

I have seen various posts on the internet on how to convert a 135N film back (cost around £150 currently) to 135W.  It involves removing the film mask to and fitting a 3D printed wide mask, moving the film transport roller to the wide position.  There is one drawback though.  Film spacing will not be correct for the wide format.  The 135W back uses a different gear ratio to move the correct amount of film forward.  The 135N film back will not do that.  The work around is shoot a blank frame with the lens cap on after shooting a photo.   Not the most efficient use of film but at least you do not get overlap images.   This is the draw back of converting a 135N back to 135W back.  I have heard you can 3D print a new gear with 14 instead of 21 teeth to achieve the correct film spacing.  That is something for me to do in the future.

Now onto the modification.

Step 1: Remove the standard 35mm mask.  There are 4 small screws holding it.

Film masked removed and the 3D printed wide mask next to it.

Standard and 3D printed wide mask.

Step 2: Remove the metal plate on the side held by 4 screws.

Step 3:  Remove the roller pin and remove the roller.  Watch out for the ball bearings on the sides of the rollers.

This photo shows the location the roller needs to needs to be moved to.

Roller removed, note the ball bearings.

There are 7 ball bearings on each side.

Step 4: Use 2mm ID, 5mm OD, 2mm width bearings to replace the ball bearings.  Then move the roller to the outer position.

Fitting the bearings will fill out the space for the new roller position.

Roller moved to the outer position.

Step 5: Put everything back together.  You need to counter sink the 3D printed mask of the screw holes.  The screws are not long enough and the screw heads should be flushed with the surface.  Note the standard pressure plate is not wide enough to cover the wider area.  I may look into a wider pressure plate in future.

The wide mask fitted.  I will paint the mask with black paint before using it.

This is the image spacing using the blank frame method (shooting a blank image at 1/500s at F22 with the lens cap on).  Else you will get frame overlap.

Test images from the first time using the modified film back.

Update 2025-04-13

I have swapped the 21 gear tooth with a 3D printed 14 tooth gear.  This corrects the frame apacing problem and I do no not need to shoot a blank frame after every shot.  In order to make this work properly, you also need to file the pin on the insert.  Note the scratches on the surface of the insert from filing.  I had to ground down a small screw driver in order to fit in the slot of the screw head.  I did not have a screw driver that thin.

3D printed gear and pin filed down to a couple of mm.

Downloads

ETRS wide mask: Bronica SQ 135W Film Gate by Zackjevans - Thingiverse

Youtube video of modding a 135N film back: Bronica ETR-Si | Modding a 135N back to be a 135W back

My Adventures with Mamiya Press Super 23 Ordered from Japan

This blog post records how got my Mamiya Press Super 23 from Japan and share my experience, good or bad.  So here goes.  I have always wanted a Mamiya Press Super 23 or Universal.  I want to shoot panoramic with 35mm film and use it like a budget XPan.  It also give me the option of shooting 6x7 or 6x9 images if I want to do that.  I was looking through EBay and started to watch a few cameras and settled on a Super 23 with 100mm F3.5 lens with two film backs.  The film backs are 6x7 and 6x9.  The camera was ordered and I started track it.  The camera was shipped by DHL and I had to pay 20% import tax.  It took 16 days from ordering to receiving the camera.  DHL was the shipper and they are pretty bad.  I am not going to go into too much details but I was the one ended up chasing the package and directing them to me.  I will not be using DHL for my international shipping for sure.

The camera itself was well packed and arrived in good shape. It is in good condition for it's age.  Everything worked as expected.  The lens was clean, all shutter speeds works and aperture blades clean.  The 100mm F3.5 lens is the older type with 40.5mm filter.  I think the later 100mm F3.5 lens have 55mm filter size. Testing both film backs with backing paper show them to be working.  The foam light seals on the film backs seem to be intact and does not need changing at the moment.

The viewfinder was reasonably clear but there were some dirt visible.  I did take the viewfinder/rangefinder assembly apart to clean it.  It came out very well.  I also took the time to adjust the rangefinder.  It was every slightly off.

Cleaning the various lenses and mirrors of the viewfinder/rangefinder

Basically, buying a camera from Japan does mean you will need to do some work on them.  I don't think you will get a 100% camera.  It may be an operational camera, but sending it to a camera technician may be required, unless you can do the work yourself.

The date code on the bottom of the viewfinder assembly

For information, when the rangefinder assembly was removed from the body, there was a date code of 47,11,24.  This mean the camera was made of the 47th year for Showa era, on 24th November.  47th Sowa year is 1972.

My Attempt at Adding a Diode to Nikon Nikomat/Nikkormat FTN

My Nikkormat FTNw as purchased in Japan where they are called Nikomat.  It was in poor shape, but after a clean up of the prism and replaced light seals, the camera is now working well.  This camera is very easy to work on.  Removing the prism was very easy.  Even the meter is working.  Of cause the 1.5V battery is not correct for this camera.  Then I saw a video on youtube on fitting a diode to correct the voltage.  Since I have done this before with my Fujica ST701, I have a few IN4007 diodes left over.  Removing the top cover is quite easy and only took me about 5 minutes.

This was what I found under the cover

I did not have any ECG109 diode but just used IN4007 diode left over from my modification of Fujica ST701.  This is after I soldered the diode in place.

Diode in place

I refitted the top cover and tried the camera.  However, the meter did not work as expected.  I don't think the IN4007 diode is suited to this camera.  The exposure dial never move into the over exposed section.  Maybe the voltage drop was too high?  In the end I had to remove the diode and revert back to original.  I will get some ECG109 and try again.  This has not been a success but I have ordered some ECG109 diodes.  I will update this post in the future.

Update: I ordered ECG109 diodes and fitted to my Nikomat.  I can say it is working as it should.  It is now working the same as my Nikon F2.  However, it does not mean it is correct.  I will report how the photos comes out in future.

ECG109 diode fitted to the camera