Monday, May 25, 2026

Making a Shutter Release Cable for Yashica TLR/Nikon F/F2

Cameras like Nikon F/F2 and Yashica TLRs (635 and Yashica Mat) uses an older shutter release which have an external screw thread.  They require a different shutter release cable to trigger the shutter.  They are much less common and expensive.  However, I found a way to make a shutter release from a bicycle tyre valve cap and standard shutter release cable.  Most people will have these at home and will not cost you any money.


Step 1: Drill hole on a tyre valve cap


Step 2: Screw in shutter release cable


Step 3:  You are done.  This is the cable release fitted to Yashica 635



Tuesday, April 21, 2026

35mm Film Into 120 Backing Paper Jig from EBay

This is a post for people who wants to shoot sprocket holes photos with medium format cameras.  You can buy cheap adaptors quite easily, but they can not be used with older cameras with viewing window on the back.  For cameras with a viewing window it is difficult to get consistent frame spacing.  Even if you tape up the window, frame spacing can be hit and miss.

There is a solution though.  I saw this rig on EBay for rolling 35mm film onto 120 backing paper.  I have shot 35mm films with adaptors with good results, but you always have to do work around.  Also, no need to unload the film in the dark.


With this rig, you are able to roll 35mm films into 120 backing paper easily.  All you need are some spare 120 backing paper, film spools and a dark bag or dark room.  I bought this from EBay and received it within a week.  The rig itself looks like it is 3D printed but feel durable enough for what it needs to do.  It will not be too difficult for anyone to print one.  The cost from EBay was £14 (UK GPB) delivered.  I guess if you have a 3D printer, it will cost very little to print one.

If this works, it will make shooting 35mm film in medium format cameras much easier.

YOU NEED TO DO THIS IN A DARK BAG OR DARK ROOM!

 


I put the film canister into the rig and then taped the film onto the backing paper.  I then placed the whole thing into my dark bag and rolled the correct length of film onto the spool.  I Marked where that should be with a masking tape on the backing paper so I can feel it in the dark bag.  At the correct length, I cut the film and then roll the rest of the backing paper onto the spool.  That is not the end though, you now need to put a spool back onto the end of the backing paper and roll the backing paper/film the other way.  This is so the film starts at the right end.  You must make sure you keep the backing paper tight without slack to avoid "fat roll" and light leak.


I made two rolls of film to test.  Unfortunately I could not show you the process in the dark bag.  The camera I used to test was my Mamiya Six folding camera.  With the 35mm film loaded I masked off the viewfinder to take into account of the 35mm film


The results was very good.  Frame spacing was very good.  However, there is a hint of light leak from a couple of frames.  Here are a few photos from the first roll.







Now I know this works, I will be able to use the 35mm film in all my cameras without doing any work around.  Most importantly, I do not need to carry a dark bag to unload the film.  Is the rig worth the money?  I think so.  I have tried doing this without a rig in the past and it is difficult to centre the film.  You need three hands to hold everything.  The result was very inconsistent.

They also make a version to load 35mm film into 127 backing paper.  For people with 127 cameras, I would say this is really useful.  The width of 35mm film is much closer to 127 film.  127 films are very expensive, this rig makes shooting with 127 cameras much cheaper.  Although, you will have to live with the sprocket holes.